Automatic sewing machine



Nov. 9, 1965 L. BONO 3,216,380

AUTOMATIC SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 10, 1963 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTORLu lGi Bouo ATTORNEYS Nov. 9, 1965 L. BONO 3,216,380

AUTOMATIC SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 10, 1963 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTORLu lGl 5on0 BY 392M ATTORNEYS NOV. 9, 1965 BONO AUTOMATIC SEWING MACHINE3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Sept. 10, 1963 IN VENTOR LUlGl Some @442 WfiZ h 9ATTORNEYS United States Patent 3,216,380 AUTOMATIC SEWING MACHINE LuigiB0110, Pavia, Italy, assignor to Necchi Societa per Azioni, Pavia, ItalyFiled Sept. 10, 1963, Ser. No. 307,979 Claims priority, applicationItaly, Sept. 10, 1962, Patent 678,248 10 Claims. (Cl. 112-2) Thisinvention relates in general to new and useful improvements in equipmentfor sewing machines, and more particularly to novel equipment for theexecution of seams according to patterns designed beforehand.

A primary object of this invention is to provide a novel sewing machineequipment which is of a construction to permit, through easy and rapidadjustment, the changing of the over-all length of a predetermined seampattern whereby the sewing machine equipment is readily adaptable to thesewing of like patterns of different lengths.

This invention particularly relates to equipment which includes a sewingmachine having a table, and a fabric holding frame movable on the tablethrough a rigid connection with a slide or follower particularly adaptedto follow the movements of a feeler pressing against a shaped pattern.

Accordingly, another object of this invention is to provide in a sewingmachine of the automatic pattern sewing type, a patterning device whichmay be readily extended or retracted to a desired length.

A still further object of this invention is to provide in an automaticoperating sewing machine a fabric holder which is adjustable in lengthto accommodate like pattern fabrics of different lengths, and the sewingmachine including a guide pattern which is in accordance with the sewingto be executed on the fabric in the fabric holding frame, the patternalso being adjustable in length and both the fabric holding frame andthe pattern being provided with like adjusting indicia whereby after asetting of the fabric holding clamp the pattern may be likewise set toeffect the forming of seams in accordance with the fabric held by thefabric holding clamp.

With the above and other objects in view that will hereinafter appear,the nature of the invention will be more clearly understood by areference to the following detailed description, the appended claims andthe several views illustrated in the accompanying drawings.

In the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is a front perspective view of a sewing machine formed inaccordance with this invention and shows generally the environment ofthe invention.

FIGURE 2 is a fragmentary perspective view rotating 180 degrees fromthat of FIGURE 1 and shows generally the details of the fabric holdingframe and the specific manner in which the fabric holding frame is movedthrough a predetermined pattern to effect a predetermined sewing offabric held thereby.

FIGURE 3 is a plan view of the pattern of this invention and showsgenerally the details thereof.

FIGURE 4 is a rotated transverse vertical sectional view taken along theline IV-IV of FIGURE 3 and shows the specific cross-section of anintermediate portion of the pattern.

FIGURE 5 is a longitiudinal vertical sectional view taken along the lineVV of FIGURE 3 and shows further the details of the pattern.

Before making specific reference to the structure illustrated in thedrawings, it is pointed out that there is illustrated, by way of exampleonly, equipment for controlling the execution of the necessary sewingoperation by joining together the pieces of fabric which constitute ashirt collar. The drawings show the manner in which the 3,216,380Patented Nov. 9, 1965 same equipment may be utilized for the purpose offorming collars of different sizes and accordingly different lengths. Itis to be understood that the invention is in no way restricted to theforming of shirt collars.

Referring now to the drawings in detail, it will be seen that theequipment of this invention includes a sewing machine 1 which is mountedon a table 2 and which is suitably driven by an electric motor 3 so asto sew pieces x of fabric which is shifted relative to a needle 4 of thesewing machine.

The fabric pieces x are stretched on a fabric holding frame 5. Thefabric holding frame 5 is illustrated in FIGURES 1 and 2 as beingprimarily formed of a rod 6 on which there are mounted two fabric clamps7 and 8. These clamps are specifically constructed to receive and totighten the fabric pieces x which have been previously cut in accordancewith the desired shirt collar profile, while leaving free the edges ofthe pieces of fabric along which the sewing is to be effected. Thefabric clamps 7 and 8 are held in fabric clamping closed relation bymeans of resilient hold-down strips 9 which are pivotally mounted formovement to positions wherein opening of the fabric clamps 7 and 8 ispermitted.

The fabric clamp 8 is mounted for adjustment along the rod 6 inaccordance with the particular size of shirt collar to be sewn. Anindicator 10 is carried by the fabric clamp 8 and cooperates withgraduations 11 on the rod 6 to permit the rapid positioning of the clamp8 in the desired position. The cooperation of the indicator 10 with thegraduations 11 also indicates to an operator of the sewing machine 1 ata rapid glance the setting of the fabric holding frame 5.

Referring now to FIGURE 2 in particular, it will be seen that the fabricholding frame 5 is secured to the upper end of a vertical arm 12 whichpasses through an enlarged slot 13 (FIG. 1) in the table 2. The verticalarm 12 is driven in a transverse direction by means of a slide 14 whichis movable beneath the table 2 on a second slide 15 which is, in turn,movable in a longitudinal direction.

It will be seen that the slide 14 includes a horizontal arm 16 whichextends transversely of the rod 6 and which is slidable between pairs ofrollers 17 carried by the slide 15. The slide 14 also includes an arm 18which is provided at an end remote from the arm 16 with a small rollerthat rides on a small plate 21 carried by the slide 15.

The slide 15 carries a plurality of small rollers 22 that are mountedfor movement along a pair of bars 23 which are suitably fixed underneaththe table 2 in positions parallel with the rod 6.

The slide 15 carries an electric motor 24 which is connected to a speedreducer. The speed reducer has extending therefrom at generally rightangles to the axis of the motor 24, a small drive shaft 26 which issuitably journaled in the slide 15 for rotation. In the operation of thesewing machine, the shaft 26 adheres to a shaped body 27 which forms thepattern or guide that determines the pattern of the sewing accomplishedby the sewing machine 1. It is to be understood that the shaft 26 rollsalong the pattern or guide 27 and exactly follows the contour thereof toconsequently displace the fabric holding frame 5 in the vicinity of theneedle 4 in accordance with the outline of the pattern 27.

Referring once again to FIGURE 1, it will be seen that the supportingframe for the table 2 includes a pair of cross members 2a and 2b betweenwhich two guide bars 28 and 29 extend. The guide bars 28 and 29 areparallel to each other and to the bars 23. Referring now to FIGURE 5, itwill be seen that the bar 28 is embraced by sleeves 30, 31 and 32 towhich there are secured by means of screw 33 (FIG. 4) three plates 34,35 and 36 r 3 which are spaced longitudinally along the bar 28. Theplates 34, 35 and 36 support sectors 27a, 27b and 270, respectively, ofthe pattern 27. The bar 29 is embraced by sliding blocks 37 (FIG. 4)which are rigidly secured to the plates 34, 35 and 36 by means of screwtype fasteners.

At this time it is pointed out that the above construction may be variedto the extent that the shaft 26 could be mounted on the table 2 and thecross members 2a and 2b could be fixedly secured to the slide 14. It isalso pointed out at this time that the plates 34 and 36 are symmetricalwith respect to the intermediate plate 35.

The cross member 2a has rotatably journaled thereon a hand wheel 38 towhich there is connected a shaft 39 which is rotated by means of thehand wheel 38. As is clearly shown in FIGURE 3, the shaft 39 is disposedintermediate the bars 28 and 29. The shaft 39 has a central section 40and an extreme section 41 which are threaded, the threaded section 40being of a larger diameter than the section 41 and having a pitch twicethat of the threads of the extreme section 41. The plate 35 carries asleeve 42 which is interiorly bushed with an internally threaded bushing43 threaded on to the section 40 of the shaft 39. Similarly, the plate36 carries a sleeve 44 having an internally threaded bushing 45 which isthreaded on the section 41 of the shaft 39.

The position of the plate 34 along the bars 28 and 29 is adjustable andthe plate 34 is secured in an adjusted position by means of screws 46and 47 which lock the two sleeves 30 and the plate 34 on the bar 28.Once the position of the plate 34 is adjusted, it is normally retainedin the fixed position.

The plate 36 carries an indicator 48 which cooperates with graduations49 on a bracket 50. The bracket 50 is fixed to the cross member 2b. Thethree plates 34, 35 and 36 are mounted on the bars 28 and 29 in a mannerwherein when the indicator 48 is in the vicinity of the lowest value ofthe graduations 49, adjacent edges of the three plates are substantiallyin contact, with the plate 35 being spaced equidistant between theplates 34 and 36. When the hand wheel 38 is rotated, the plate 34remains stationary while the plates 35 and 36 move along the bars 28 and29. It will be apparent that the construction of the shaft 39 is suchthat the displacement of the plate 36 is double that of the plate 35 sothat the plates 34 and 36 always remain in a symmetrical position withrespect to the plate 35 irrespective of the position of the indicator 48with respect to the graduations 49.

It is to be understood that once the plates 35 and 36 have beenadjusted, accidental movement of the plates 35 and 36 is prevented bytightening a lock and screw 51 carried by one of the sleeves 32. Thissufficiently secures the sleeve 32 on the bar 28 and prevents shiftingof the plate 36. This, in turn, prevents the rotation of the shaft 39.

Screws 52 are utilized to secure to the plate 35 to a bracket 53 and thebracket 53 has arms 54 to which there are secured two blocks 55 formingguide surfaces of the guide sector 27b. The blocks 55 are preferablyformed of iron or similar magnetic materials and have substantiallystraight line guiding surfaces.

The plates 34 and 36 .are provided with bearings or bushing 56. Certainof the bearings 56 carry upstanding pins or plugs 57 which are utilizedfor the purpose of aligning the guide sectors 27a and 270 with theplates 34 and 36, respectively.

The guide sectors 27a and 27b of the guide or pattern 27 have profilescorresponding to the sections a and c of the shirt collar x (FIG. 2).The sectors 27a and 27c project beyond the plates 34 and 36 in generallyoverlying relation to the plate 35 and include portions 58 and 59,respectively, which are of a substantially rectilinear profile and whichextend between the bars 55. It is to be understood in all possiblepositions of the indicator 48 with respect to the graduations 49, thereis an overlapping 4 of the portions 58 and 59 with the bars 55. Thus thesmall bars or blocks 55 insure the continuity of the profile of theguide or pattern 27. The pattern 27, therefore, turns out to beextendable or shortenable with constant continuity throughout the lengththereof in accordance with the size of the shirt collar to be sewn. Itis to be understood that the length of a shirt collar to be sewn variesas between sizes only as to the central portion 5 thereof which isrectilinear.

The guide sector 27:: is formed of three plates 60, 61 and 62 while theguide sector 270 is formed of three plates 63, 64, 65. Each set ofplates is joined together by means of a plurality of bolts. The upperplates 60, 63 and the lower plates 62, 65 are formed of a magneticmaterial, whereas intermediate plates 61, 64 are formed of anon-magnetic material. The plates 69, 62 are mounted in rear brackets66, 67 whereas the plates 63, 65 are mounted in brackets 68, 69. Thesets of brackets have disposed therebetween electromagnets 70 and 71,respectively, which are suitable to create a magnetic tension sufficientto make the shaft 26 adhere against the three sectors of the pattern orguide 27 in order that the shaft 26 may roll without slippage along thecontour of the pattern 27.

It is to be understood that in order to make a more practical use of theequipment described hereinabove, it is advised that the graduations 11showing the distance between the clamps 7 and 8 of the fabric holdingframe 5 be equal to the graduations 49 and show, for every size of shirtcollars, the required distance between the plates 34, 35 and 36 toposition the sectors 27a, 27b and 270 of the pattern or guide 27.Preferably, the graduations 11 and 49 will be provided with suitablenumbered markings to indicate the sizes of the shirt, collars to besewn.

In carrying out the sewing of a shirt collar of a desired size, thescrew 51 is loosened, and the hand wheel 38 is turned in a mannerwhereby the plates 35 and 36 are shifted with respect to the plate 34 inthe desired direction. Once the length of the pattern 27 is adjusted,the screw 51 is again tightened to lock the pattern 27 in its adjustedsize. The clamp 8 of the fabric holding frame 5 is also adjusted inaccordance with the adjustment made to the pattern 27. This having beenaccomplished, pieces x of fabric for the proper size of shirt collar arethen suitably mounted Within the fabric holding frame 5. The fabricholding frame 5 is then shifted by hand until the shaft 26 reaches oneof the ends 72 of the profile of the pattern 27. At the ends of thepattern 27 there are provided small recesses 73 formed in protectingplate 74. The plates 74 carry micro-switches 75 and when the shaft 26 isseated in one of the recesses 73, it locks the contacts of theassociated micro-switches 75.

The micro-switches 75 and their protecting plates 74 are fixed onbrackets 76, which, in turn, are fixed on the plates 34 and 36 in properrelation to the ends 72 of the pattern 27. The micro-switches 75 areconnected, in a conventional manner, with the customary electric meansfor operating the sewing machine 1, with the electric motor 24controlling the rotation of the shaft 26 and with the electromagnets 70and 71 in order that the operation of the sewing machine 1, the rotationof the shaft 26 and the energization of the electro-magnets may becontrolled only when the shaft 26 is in contact with one of themicroswitches. It is to be understood that one of the microswitches 75is utilized for the starting of the sewing operation and the other ofthe micro-switches is utilized for the stopping of the sewing operation.When the sewing of the pieces x of the shirt collar is ended, the fabricholding frame 5 may be shifted by hand first to an outof-the-wayposition for the purpose of replacing the pieces of fabric which havebeen sewn together by other pieces of fabric which are to be sewntogether, and then to a return position wherein the shaft 26 is again inits starting position.

Although only a preferred embodiment of the invention has beenspecifically illustrated and described herein, it is to be understoodthat minor variations may be made in the disclosed sewing machineequipment within the spirit and scope of the invention, as defined inthe appended claims.

I claim:

1. For use in an automatic sewing machine, an adjustable guide patternwhich is adaptable to be adjusted to selectively provide various edgeoutlines, comprising, a plurality of members each comprising a separatepattern edge, said members being arranged relative to each other so thatsaid separate pattern edges define in plan view a continuous patternedge, said members being successively contiguous with each other withthe pattern edges of adjacent ones of said members overlapping eachother, said members being adjustably movable along a straight linerelative to each other to selected positions, said separate patternedges defining a different continuous pattern edge for each one of saidselected positions.

2. For use in an automatic sewing machine, an adjustable guide patternwhich is adaptable to be adjusted to selectively provide various edgeoutlines, comprising, a plurality of members each comprising a separatepattern edge, said members being arranged relative to each other so thatsaid separate pattern edges define in plan view a continuous patternedge, said members being successively contiguous with each other withthe pattern edges of adjacent ones of said members overlapping eachother, said members being adjustably movable relative to each other toselected positions, said separate pattern edges defining a differentcontinuous pattern edge for each one of said selected positions, whereina one of said members defines a rectilinear pattern edge and another ofsaid members defines a non-rectilinear pattern edge.

3. The guide pattern of claim 2, wherein said pattern comprises at leastthree said members, with one defining a rectilinear pattern edge andbeing positioned between two other members which each definenon-rectilinear pattern edges.

4. The guide pattern of claim 3, wherein said member which defines arectilinear pattern edge comprises two spaced parallel blocks eachdefining an identical pattern edge, said blocks overlapping each one ofsaid other members with said other members having ends thereof fittedbetween said spaced blocks.

5. The guide pattern of claim 3, including an adjustment means andwherein any two of said members are drivingly connected to saidadjustment means.

6. The guide pattern of claim 5, actuation of said adjustment meansmoving each of said any two members unequal distances relative to thethird member.

7. The guide pattern of claim 6, wherein said distances are unequal by aratio of two to one.

8. In a sewing machine, a fabric holder, drive means for effecting themovement of said fabric holder in accordance with the desired shape ofsewing, said drive means including a guide for controlling the movementof said fabric holder, said fabric holder being adjustable inpredetermined direction, said guide being adjustable in a likedirection, and means coordinating the adjustment of said guide with theadjustment of said fabric holder, wherein said guide includes two endportions and a bridging intermediate portion, one of said end portionsand said intermediate portion being shiftable with respect to the otherof said end portions, and means for effecting the simultaneous shiftingof said intermediate portion and said one end portion with the shiftingof said intermediate portion being to a lesser degree than the shiftingof said one end portion.

9. In a sewing machine, a fabric holder, drive means for effecting themovement of said fabric holder in accordance with the desired shape ofsewing, said drive means including a guide for controlling the movementof said fabric holder, said fabric holder being adjustable inpredetermined direction, said guide being adjustable in a likedirection, and means coordinating the adjustment of said guide with theadjustment of said fabric holder, and wherein said guide includes twoend portions and a bridging intermediate portion, a guide support, meansslidably mounting said guide portions on said guide support forindividual movement, means for locking one of said end portions in afixed position on said guide support, and shifting means forsimultaneously shifting the other of said end portions and saidintermediate portion with the shifting of said intermediate portionbeing to a lesser degree than the shifting of said other end portion.

10. In a sewing machine, a fabric holder, drive means for effecting themovement of said fabric holder in accordance with the desired shape ofsewing, said drive means including a guide for controlling the movementof said fabric holder, said fabric holder being adjustable inpredetermined direction, said guide being adjustable in a likedirection, and means coordinating the adjustment of said guide with theadjustment of said fabric holder, and wherein said guide includes twoend portions and a bridging intermediate portion, a guide support, meansslidably mounting said guide portions on said guide support forindividual movement, means for locking one of said end portions in afixed position on said guide support, and shifting means forsimultaneouly shifting the other of said end portions and saidintermediate portion with the shifting of said intermediate portionbeing to a lesser degree than the shifting of said other end portion,said shifting means including a feed screw having two different threadportions, and two different nuts engaged by said thread portions andsecured to said intermediate guide portion to said intermediate guideportion and said other guide end portion.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 61,926 2/67Copeland 33/192 1,942,128 1/34 Sommer 112-2 2,754,7 7/56 Holmes-Higgins1122 2,768,592 10/56 Bihaly 112-2 2,867,911 1/59 Atkinson 331943,001,489 9/61 Bond et al. 112--2 3,084,640 4/ 63 Hayes et al. 112-23,111,051 11/63 Holfmann 62 FOREIGN PATENTS 581,451 4/52 Italy.

JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.

1. FOR USE IN AN AUTOMATIC SEWING MACHINE, AN ADJUSTABLE GUIDE PATTERNWHICH IS ADAPTABLE TO BE ADJUSTED TO SELECTIVELY PROVIDE VARIOUS EDGEOUTLINES, COMPRISING, A PLURALITY OF MEMBERS EACH COMPRISING A SEPARATEPATTERN EDGE, SAID MEMBERS BEING ARRANGED RELATIVE TO EACH OTHER SO THATSAID SEPARATE PATTERN EDGES DEFINE IN PLAN VIEW A CONTINUOUS PATTERNEDGE, SAID MEMBERS BEING SUCCESSIVELY CONTIGUOUS WITH EACH OTHER WITHTHE PATTERN EDGES OF ADJACENT ONES OF SAID MEMBERS OVERLAPPING EACHOTHER, SAID MEMBERS BEING ADJUSTABLY MOVABLE ALONG A STRAIGHT LINERELATIVE TO EACH OTHER TO SELECTED POSITIONS, SAID SEPARATE PATTERNEDGES DEFINING A DIFFERENT CONTINUOUS PATTERN EDGE FOR EACH ONE OF SAIDSELECTED POSITIONS.